WTF Friday: Another S10 “Rat”

In the Facebook group Primer Rust and Rat Rods S10s come up quite a bit. Over the last few years S10 frames have become an incredibly popular option for those building just about anything.

At this point there may not be a project an S10 frame hasn’t been thrown under. As a result S10 bodies have become somewhat expendable. Or at least expendable to those with no love for first generation s10s in their stock(ish) form.

A few days ago Chris Stagg posted photos of his S10 which one can only assume was piligided for parts somewhere along the way.

Making lemons out of lemonade, Chris got out his grinder and created this one of a kind hot rod.

Chopped and shortened, the truck sits on a custom chassis that looks like it uses a hint of the original s10 suspension.

The big wheels and stock hub caps were the plan from the start and, honestly, I kind of dig the overall look.

It’s weird, but, intriguing.

Body modifications on this truck are pretty plentiful and the most obvious is the chop. Combine that with a healthy channel and you’ve got a vehicle that is roughly three apples high.

It looks as though it would be un-driveable, but the owner does manage to get in and drive the thing.

At this point he’s just driving it around his yard, but still, that alone is quite a feat.

It doesn’t look like the most comfortable ride, but he wouldn’t be the first person to put style behind comfort.


There’s currently no real front end on the truck, but Chris is trying out the two looks above.

Judging by the radiator placement in the video it looks as though he’s leaning more towards the Jeep side of things, but with a project like this you never really know.

All in all the truck isn’t exactly something I would build, but I am not mad at it either. Of the S10 “rods” that have made WTF Friday posts this is one of the best.

No explicit build thread for this truck, but if you want to see updates every now and again join Primer Rust And Rat Rods

WTF Friday: Hayabusa Powered Bradley GT

The Bradley GT is a car born in the late 70s kit car craze. It used a Volkswagen Beetle chassis and the body was entirely fiberglass.

The cars had sports car features like flip-up headlights and an open air feel.

Offered as an assembled car, or a DIY-kit, Bradley GTs vary somewhat in final specification.

Typically though typically they are powered by air-cooled Volkswagen motors.


This red example is not typical. There’s no air-cooled motor to be found here. Instead there’s a first generation Hayabusa motorcycle engine suspended between the rear tail lights.

It ‘fits’ but it is certainly not covered or subtle by anymeans. The motor is backed by a custom Rancho transaxle with a hardened input staff.

It’s also been tuned with a Power Commander and ‘autotune’.

Inside the gauge cluster has been brought over to support the new power plant and transaxle.

The interior also features a heavy amount of red and black to match the exterior.

The owner states the car was professionally built and is asking $9000 for the car to pursue a business venture.

If you’re curious, yes, it does run and drive as seen below.

Want to own this little terror? It’s up for grabs now on Kijiji.

WTF Friday: Hayabusa Powered Bradley GT

The Bradley GT is a car born in the late 70s kit car craze. It used a Volkswagen Beetle chassis and the body was entirely fiberglass.

The cars had sports car features like flip-up headlights and an open air feel.

Offered as an assembled car, or a DIY-kit, Bradley GTs vary somewhat in final specification.

Typically though typically they are powered by air-cooled Volkswagen motors.


This red example is not typical. There’s no air-cooled motor to be found here. Instead there’s a first generation Hayabusa motorcycle engine suspended between the rear tail lights.

It ‘fits’ but it is certainly not covered or subtle by anymeans. The motor is backed by a custom Rancho transaxle with a hardened input staff.

It’s also been tuned with a Power Commander and ‘autotune’.

Inside the gauge cluster has been brought over to support the new power plant and transaxle.

The interior also features a heavy amount of red and black to match the exterior.

The owner states the car was professionally built and is asking $9000 for the car to pursue a business venture.

If you’re curious, yes, it does run and drive as seen below.

Want to own this little terror? It’s up for grabs now on Kijiji.

Project Why Wait: Installing LS Fabrication Firewall Fillers

After unboxing the Langes Shop (now LS Fabrication) firewall fillers in the last Project Why Wait update I had a bit of a “what have I got myself into” moment when reality set in. I’d never welded sheet metal before and I was about to cut out my firewall.

Reading about it, and watching others do it, is one thing but picking up the torch and getting it done? Another entirely.

However Chris Lange (the Lange in Lange’s Shop) reassured me that the installation is fairly straight forward. Even for the inexperienced weekend warrior typing this post.

So, instructions in one hand and a grinder in the other, it was time to make some sparks.

First things first, I had to clear the cab of anything particularly flammable. Cleaning out a 67-year-old truck, that’s spent the last few years outside, is in no way an enjoyable task.

Animal feces, cigarette butts, tools, old clothes… you’d be surprised just how much crap can hide in a truck that looked empty. I didn’t take any pics of this process as it was head down and plow through to better things ahead.

With everything cleared out, stripping what remained on the firewall off was next. Then I traced the firewall fillers with a sharpie before masking it out with tape.

With a fire extinguisher close at hand, I used an angle grinder fit with a thin cutting wheel to do the dirty work. The instructions state to leave about a 1/2″ over lap to make fit up a little easier so that’s precisely what I did.

I have to give a shout out to LS Fabrication for including two very crucial things in the instructions.

The first, was a photo of the firewall support you see above. I could have easily zipped those right off had the instructions overlooked mentioning them. Second, including what size drill bit to use for removing spot welds very helpful.

At the time I didn’t have a spot weld cutter so knowing what size to use, without several trips to the toolbox, really helped keep the pace up in the garage.

Since I’ve received my fillers, LS Fabrication has shipped several around the world. With so many builders using them each installer does things a bit differently. Some people have omitted cutting out the factory firewall entirely.

After briefly considering this approach, the fear of moisture accumulating between the factory firewall and the new panel scared me away.

During fitment checks, and before tacking, I used some Gorilla tape to hold the fillers in place.

It’s a bit crude, but, my small welding magnets were not quite up to the task.

Once I was happy with fitment I tacked the panels in and checked everything again.

I actually ended up later removing the passenger side filler to cut out more material and fit it a bit better which you may notice in some of the photos below.

At this point I could have welded the fillers in to create a lap weld. But after talking to a few friends (big thanks to Jeff Wybrow, Dennis Thorne and Pat Cheately) they all suggested running a cutting disc around the outside of the panel.

This would create a gap so I could butt weld the panels together versus lap welding them. Lap welding opens up an opportunity for moisture to accumulate and moisture leads to rust. That said butt welding is a somewhat more challenging because it is easier to burn through.

My machine set up for this job was a Lincoln MIG Pack 10, 110amp, welder and .030 wire. Machine settings were pretty close to what was prescribed on the inside cover, save for minor wire speed adjustments as I went.

On the driver’s side, after I cut all the way around, I ended up performing about a half-inch weld at a time. Alternating in a star pattern across the panel.

This method worked pretty well but it wasn’t the typical method I read in similar how to articles.

So, for the passenger side I did the tack, tack again, then tack between those tacks, method. I did that until there were no holes left in my line of tacks.

Using my air blower throughout helped minimize warping of the metal.

To be entirely honest both methods took about the same amount of time and looked reasonably similar after grinding.

Admittedly I think the heat affected the passenger panel a bit more (not to a noticeable degree once I finish it out) so my suggestion here would be use whichever method you feel most comfortable with.

Because I am learning, I tried both.

Following the initial passes were steps I was familiar with; weld, grind, weld repeat.

The tools you see below got a lot of use this month, along with a set of safety goggles and a dust mask.

After making a lot of noise and plenty of sparks I was able to get the firewall fairly blended in.

Once I finish replacing the front of my floors (to be covered in another update) I’ll put a little more metal work in before I break out the various body fillers.

I will also show you how I plan to tackle the inside of the firewall to make sure this job holds up to the tests of time.

To get a head start on the bodywork I dug out some paint stripper and stripped everything off the firewall in the areas I will be working over.

Eventually the entire firewall will be completely stripped before it goes to Miltowne Collision. Any guesses on the color I’m having the engine bay sprayed?

At first glance the job might look daunting but it’s really not too bad provided you have a welder and a slight bit of experience with it.

The visual change, even incomplete, is remarkable.

Hopefully walking you guys through install of the LS Fabrication fillers helps remove any hesitation you might have in regards to tackling something similar.

If I can make it through so can you, and if you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask.

Project Why Wait: Installing LS Fabrication Firewall Fillers

After unboxing the Langes Shop (now LS Fabrication) firewall fillers in the last Project Why Wait update I had a bit of a “what have I got myself into” moment when reality set in. I’d never welded sheet metal before and I was about to cut out my firewall.

Reading about it, and watching others do it, is one thing but picking up the torch and getting it done? Another entirely.

However Chris Lange (the Lange in Lange’s Shop) reassured me that the installation is fairly straight forward. Even for the inexperienced weekend warrior typing this post.

So, instructions in one hand and a grinder in the other, it was time to make some sparks.

First things first, I had to clear the cab of anything particularly flammable. Cleaning out a 67-year-old truck, that’s spent the last few years outside, is in no way an enjoyable task.

Animal feces, cigarette butts, tools, old clothes… you’d be surprised just how much crap can hide in a truck that looked empty. I didn’t take any pics of this process as it was head down and plow through to better things ahead.

With everything cleared out, stripping what remained on the firewall off was next. Then I traced the firewall fillers with a sharpie before masking it out with tape.

With a fire extinguisher close at hand, I used an angle grinder fit with a thin cutting wheel to do the dirty work. The instructions state to leave about a 1/2″ over lap to make fit up a little easier so that’s precisely what I did.

I have to give a shout out to LS Fabrication for including two very crucial things in the instructions.

The first, was a photo of the firewall support you see above. I could have easily zipped those right off had the instructions overlooked mentioning them. Second, including what size drill bit to use for removing spot welds very helpful.

At the time I didn’t have a spot weld cutter so knowing what size to use, without several trips to the toolbox, really helped keep the pace up in the garage.

Since I’ve received my fillers, LS Fabrication has shipped several around the world. With so many builders using them each installer does things a bit differently. Some people have omitted cutting out the factory firewall entirely.

After briefly considering this approach, the fear of moisture accumulating between the factory firewall and the new panel scared me away.

During fitment checks, and before tacking, I used some Gorilla tape to hold the fillers in place.

It’s a bit crude, but, my small welding magnets were not quite up to the task.

Once I was happy with fitment I tacked the panels in and checked everything again.

I actually ended up later removing the passenger side filler to cut out more material and fit it a bit better which you may notice in some of the photos below.

At this point I could have welded the fillers in to create a lap weld. But after talking to a few friends (big thanks to Jeff Wybrow, Dennis Thorne and Pat Cheately) they all suggested running a cutting disc around the outside of the panel.

This would create a gap so I could butt weld the panels together versus lap welding them. Lap welding opens up an opportunity for moisture to accumulate and moisture leads to rust. That said butt welding is a somewhat more challenging because it is easier to burn through.

My machine set up for this job was a Lincoln MIG Pack 10, 110amp, welder and .030 wire. Machine settings were pretty close to what was prescribed on the inside cover, save for minor wire speed adjustments as I went.

On the driver’s side, after I cut all the way around, I ended up performing about a half-inch weld at a time. Alternating in a star pattern across the panel.

This method worked pretty well but it wasn’t the typical method I read in similar how to articles.

So, for the passenger side I did the tack, tack again, then tack between those tacks, method. I did that until there were no holes left in my line of tacks.

Using my air blower throughout helped minimize warping of the metal.

To be entirely honest both methods took about the same amount of time and looked reasonably similar after grinding.

Admittedly I think the heat affected the passenger panel a bit more (not to a noticeable degree once I finish it out) so my suggestion here would be use whichever method you feel most comfortable with.

Because I am learning, I tried both.

Following the initial passes were steps I was familiar with; weld, grind, weld repeat.

The tools you see below got a lot of use this month, along with a set of safety goggles and a dust mask.

After making a lot of noise and plenty of sparks I was able to get the firewall fairly blended in.

Once I finish replacing the front of my floors (to be covered in another update) I’ll put a little more metal work in before I break out the various body fillers.

I will also show you how I plan to tackle the inside of the firewall to make sure this job holds up to the tests of time.

To get a head start on the bodywork I dug out some paint stripper and stripped everything off the firewall in the areas I will be working over.

Eventually the entire firewall will be completely stripped before it goes to Miltowne Collision. Any guesses on the color I’m having the engine bay sprayed?

At first glance the job might look daunting but it’s really not too bad provided you have a welder and a slight bit of experience with it.

The visual change, even incomplete, is remarkable.

Hopefully walking you guys through install of the LS Fabrication fillers helps remove any hesitation you might have in regards to tackling something similar.

If I can make it through so can you, and if you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask.

WTF Friday: The World’s Biggest Body Drop?

Minitruckers have been chasing ‘more low’ ever since the first coils were cut. When frames hit the ground it wasn’t too long before rockers did.

Then, soon after rockers were planted doors hit the dirt as well. Traditional body drops gave way to stock floor body drops, and after that people went even further eyeing up the lower body line.

A lot of these more drastic body drops were featured in a 2015 WTF Friday post appropriately titled Extreme Body Drops.

The Gregers Garage fullsize Chevy featured in this post was the inspiration for that post.

Gregors Garage took a rough Chevy and went straight up to the lower body line without hesitation. Presumably this was done because everything below that point had returned to the earth.

The truck debuted at a show about this time two years ago under construction. It obviously turned a few heads and I remember seeing the truck on SpeedHunters.

Personally though I forgot the truck shortly after and definitely wasn’t expecting to see it again this clean.

Seeing the truck with fresh paint laid out on carpet really puts into perspective how damn low the thing really is.

The fact that the hood closes and the wheels don’t pop up over the the bedsides is truly impressive. Accomplishing this was no easy feat.

A factory small block would have had no hope of fitting under the hood, so it’s been replaced with a motor from an Alfa Romeo of all things.

Being fairly flat the motor allowed the hood to close fully. More importantly the hood does so without a cowl. Huge cowls or just plain motors protruding damn near over the roof is usually what kills the lines on these types of body drops.

Inside the floor, tunnel, dash, and really everything else has been completely redesigned and reconfigured to make everything work.

Notice the brake master cylder is now behind the dash because there was simply no room for it under hood.

The truck doesn’t appear to be fully complete quite yet, but it’s pretty close. Follow Gregers Garage on Facebook if you want to see this one scrape past the finish line.

Wonder what it looks like driving…

WTF Friday: The World’s Biggest Body Drop?

Minitruckers have been chasing ‘more low’ ever since the first coils were cut. When frames hit the ground it wasn’t too long before rockers did.

Then, soon after rockers were planted doors hit the dirt as well. Traditional body drops gave way to stock floor body drops, and after that people went even further eyeing up the lower body line.

A lot of these more drastic body drops were featured in a 2015 WTF Friday post appropriately titled Extreme Body Drops.

The Gregers Garage fullsize Chevy featured in this post was the inspiration for that post.

Gregors Garage took a rough Chevy and went straight up to the lower body line without hesitation. Presumably this was done because everything below that point had returned to the earth.

The truck debuted at a show about this time two years ago under construction. It obviously turned a few heads and I remember seeing the truck on SpeedHunters.

Personally though I forgot the truck shortly after and definitely wasn’t expecting to see it again this clean.

Seeing the truck with fresh paint laid out on carpet really puts into perspective how damn low the thing really is.

The fact that the hood closes and the wheels don’t pop up over the the bedsides is truly impressive. Accomplishing this was no easy feat.

A factory small block would have had no hope of fitting under the hood, so it’s been replaced with a motor from an Alfa Romeo of all things.

Being fairly flat the motor allowed the hood to close fully. More importantly the hood does so without a cowl. Huge cowls or just plain motors protruding damn near over the roof is usually what kills the lines on these types of body drops.

Inside the floor, tunnel, dash, and really everything else has been completely redesigned and reconfigured to make everything work.

Notice the brake master cylder is now behind the dash because there was simply no room for it under hood.

The truck doesn’t appear to be fully complete quite yet, but it’s pretty close. Follow Gregers Garage on Facebook if you want to see this one scrape past the finish line.

Wonder what it looks like driving…

WTF Friday: Little Red Trailer

With the fall of message boards Kijiji has often become my go to source for WTF Friday content.

Half baked, half started ideas, abandoned projects, dusty show cars. There’s so much on Kijiji to see.

Since spring officially spring just two days ago the real “perfect” summer toys are yet to come. However, there are still some funky gems ripe for the impulse buy. One such example is this little red MG trailer.

Vehicles made into trailers are far from a new idea, but this is the first time I’ve seen the front half used of a vehicle used.

Most trailers use the back half like below:

As a trailer the MG really isn’t the right car. It’s a small two-seater that didn’t have much cargo room stock.

However, motor removed, and spun around it does offer, some level of cargo room.

Designed to be tugged along by a motorcycle rather than a car, the little trailer more than doubles the average motorcycles cargo space.

What it does for the gas mileage is of course up for debate. But above and beyond all that it makes an interesting visual statement, especially when paired with a three-wheeler (that may or may not tip at any time).

The combination of these two odd balls, three-wheeler, and MG trailer, was enough to warrant re-posting.

Buy it to use as a trailer, or buy it for MG parts. Whichever you fancy it is currently listed for $1,700 on Kijiji.ca.

WTF Friday: Little Red Trailer

With the fall of message boards Kijiji has often become my go to source for WTF Friday content.

Half baked, half started ideas, abandoned projects, dusty show cars. There’s so much on Kijiji to see.

Since spring officially spring just two days ago the real “perfect” summer toys are yet to come. However, there are still some funky gems ripe for the impulse buy. One such example is this little red MG trailer.

Vehicles made into trailers are far from a new idea, but this is the first time I’ve seen the front half used of a vehicle used.

Most trailers use the back half like below:

As a trailer the MG really isn’t the right car. It’s a small two-seater that didn’t have much cargo room stock.

However, motor removed, and spun around it does offer, some level of cargo room.

Designed to be tugged along by a motorcycle rather than a car, the little trailer more than doubles the average motorcycles cargo space.

What it does for the gas mileage is of course up for debate. But above and beyond all that it makes an interesting visual statement, especially when paired with a three-wheeler (that may or may not tip at any time).

The combination of these two odd balls, three-wheeler, and MG trailer, was enough to warrant re-posting.

Buy it to use as a trailer, or buy it for MG parts. Whichever you fancy it is currently listed for $1,700 on Kijiji.ca.